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You are here: Home / Archives for London

London, Part One

October 31, 2018 at 10:53 am by Claudia

Well. I had expected a quick yes or no answer to my question yesterday – imagine my surprise when I came home later in the day and read all of your wonderful comments! You made my day. I even shared some of your beautiful words with Don. Thank you, dear ones.

Okay! So it’s back to the trip.

We were excited about taking the Eurostar to London (which goes through a tunnel in the English Channel) but it became less exciting when we heard the announcement that it was a delayed about an hour and a half because another train had become stuck in the Chunnel. The train before ours was cancelled. The scene at King’s Cross was chaotic, as no one seemed to be keeping the waiting passengers up-to-date. We finally boarded and the ride itself was lovely. We got to see some of the French countryside. After arriving in London, we took a cab to our hotel – the Holiday Inn in Regent’s Park. Our room was so small that we could barely move. The decor was generic – and in a bad way – Holiday Inn. Only one person could go in the bathroom at a time and there was no room to move. The weather was cloudy, windy and damp and the room was the antithesis of our charming room in Paris, so yours truly was ready to cry. Don took over and went down to the front desk. When he returned, he had seen a room on the top floor that was an upgrade and quite nice. We upgraded, but we still had to wait two days until it was available. (We moved on Wednesday and the new room was SO much nicer that it completely changed our attitude.)

We headed out to explore a bit  and took a cab (Don fell in love with the big black London cabs) to Parliament.

Big Ben is currently ensconced in scaffolding, as is some of Parliament. We had to walk around to this side to catch a glimpse of the clock. Nicer photos of Parliament coming up later in the week, taken when we went to Westminster Abbey.

We walked to the Thames. There’s Don and the London Eye in the background.

Don making an “urgent” call.

We headed over to St. James Park where we watched the ducks and the swans.

They were very friendly. Looking for food, no doubt.

We watched the guards do their thing. Perfectly coordinated in movement as they patrolled their area in front of Buckingham Palace. Don loved it. No – we didn’t get to the Changing of the Guard – we weren’t all that interested, and I’ve seen it before. But this was fun.

The palace gates.

Just loved this peek at the nighttime London Eye in the background.

The next morning, we headed to the Tower of London, which was simply fascinating. I’ve been to London three times but somehow had never made it there. It’s a huge complex, much bigger than I thought it was.

This is the White Tower. All the surrounding buildings were built to protect it.

We went on a tour. Our tour guide was a Beefeater and he was wildly funny but very informative. Much history that I was unaware of. Fascinating. And bloody.

Then we headed toward Tower Bridge and walked across it to Bankside/Southwark.

The bridge is stunning.

Southwark Cathedral, which dates from 1220 – 1420, when it was a priory and then the present-day cathedral. They have a lovely cafe there and we had a tasty lunch. I tried a piece of Victoria Sponge, by the way, in honor of The Great British Baking Show, but I concluded it’s not my thing. Don liked it, though.

Further down the road along the river, we encountered our particular holy site.

The original site of the Globe theater, where King Lear and Hamlet premiered, where Shakespeare worked, acted, and ran a company of actors. It’s holy ground to us. Parts of the theater were unearthed many years ago, but just remnants. It burned to the ground at one point, was rebuilt and then, when the Puritans came to power, it was closed and ultimately destroyed.

It’s behind this fence.

This is where it stood.

As you can see, there are apartment buildings right next to it.

We were very moved. It’s fair to say that we would not be working in the theater without Shakespeare. And the past 14 years or so of my career would never have happened.

Simply the greatest playwright that ever lived.

Just down the street is the marker for original site of the Rose Theater, which was also in existence at the same time – in fact, it pre-dated the Globe.

And just down the street from that is Shakespeare’s Globe, the theater that was meticulously designed and built to reflect all that we know about the original Globe. Spearheaded by American actor Sam Wanamaker, it took years to come to fruition. It opened in the late nineties and I took a group of students there in 2001 to study. So I’ve been in it before, but Don hadn’t. A lovely woman took pity on us – the last tour of the day had ended – and let us take a peek inside the space.

It’s a living, working, thriving theater that is amazing. They had just closed their last production of the season in this outdoor space. There is another smaller theater – lit by candles – that they use in the winter months.

We went to the gift shop and bought some t-shirts and I couldn’t resist this:

Now in our bathroom.

The back of the Globe.

Next to the theater. I loved these houses.

Don was shocked to find out he couldn’t busk here.

We crossed the Millennium Bridge and headed toward my favorite church, St. Paul’s.

We arrived just in time for Evensong.

These crosses are part of a temporary installation commemorating the end of WWI.

We walked back to our neighborhood, peeking down every Mews we found. Dream: to live in a London Mews.

I believe we also walked to Daunt Books in Marylebone, which I spoke of in an earlier post.

End of the day. We walked miles, mostly on cobblestones. More tomorrow.

Happy Wednesday and Happy Birthday to my sister’s eldest, my nephew.

 

Filed Under: London, our trip to Europe 48 Comments

Seriously Jet Lagged, But We’re Home

October 25, 2018 at 10:22 am by Claudia

We’re back home. I wanted to stay there. Seriously.

But home we had to come.

Don took this photo of me in Hyde Park during our last night in London.

I’m still sorting out my emotions and my thoughts and feelings about our trip and everything I learned – about myself and about others. I’ll share some thoughts with you when I’m less jet lagged and slightly more coherent. I will say this: this trip was transformative and profound. And Don and I are closer than ever.

I apologize for falling off the face of the blogging earth but I just didn’t have the time to blog during the last week and a half of the trip. And I wanted to be in the moment as much as I could. I kept up with Instagram because it takes no time and if you follow me there, you’ll have a pretty good idea of what we were doing and seeing. IG is great for that.

I think that over the next week or so, I’ll share memories and photos with you but not necessarily in chronological order. Like today – I thought I’d share a bit about books and bookshops.

Because of the magic of IG, I was aware of two London bookshops that I really wanted to visit and I’m happy to say I got to both of them.

First up is Daunt Books. There are a few locations, I believe, but the one that was only a few blocks from our hotel was Daunt Books in Marylebone. (I chose a hotel in Marylebone because I stayed in a flat in that area when I was last in London – 17 years ago – and I was familiar with the area.) We visited the shop twice and, who am I kidding, I could have gone every day, and every time we visited it was full of book lovers.

Our first visit was in the evening and it did not disappoint. I was unable to explore every inch of the shop because there was a talk and signing scheduled for that evening in the back of the shop.

And in the daytime:

What more could you ask for? A knowledgeable staff, tons of books on all subjects, maps, children’s literature, literary magazines, beautiful wrapping papers. This shop has loyal customers and it’s easy to see why. Both Don and I bought books here and the second time I visited, they gave me a cloth bag with their logo. I was as excited as a little kid.

Then there is John Sandoe Books. A particular instagrammer visits this shop a lot and her photos of the interior made me swoon. So we hopped on the Circle Line and got off in Sloane Square and walked a few blocks to the shop.

I was already about to faint when I saw the outside.

Inside? Absolute heaven.

There’s a downstairs and two narrow winding staircases lead to the upstairs. There are books everywhere.

Photos of authors are everywhere. This is a stairway wall and that’s Sir Ralph Richardson.

Just to the right are shelves of Persephone Books, an imprint that is re-publishing twentieth century female authors. They have their own bookshop, as well, but I didn’t have the time to get there.

Just below the gray Persephones are past editions of Slightly Foxed, a literary quarterly that I follow on Instagram. I’m thinking of subscribing but I wanted to read an edition first. I bought an edition from 2015 here at John Sandoe and I bought the current Fall edition at Daunt Books.

You can see from this photo that I decided on Number 43.

Upstairs.

View from the window seat.

Don took this of me reading. Sitting on the window seat, of course.

I would move to London just to be near these bookshops. I’m not kidding, I’m deadly serious. I love them both, but John Sandoe is the fulfillment of all my bookshop dreams.

Sigh.

I bought these:

Two editions of Slightly Foxed, the literary quarterly, a Persephone edition of Cheerful Weather for the Wedding  by Julia Strachey, Edward St. Aubyn’s latest, Dunbar, and Parisians  by Graham Robb. Don bought a compendium of Orwell’s writings on Truth.

Two more buys, but I must give you a brief back story. I’ve always wanted to collect editions of To Kill a Mockingbird  that are written in different languages – actually, I got the idea from Don. If you remember, back when Don was shooting that movie for PBS in Prague, he searched everywhere for an edition in Czech, but couldn’t find one. So I went to Paris hoping to find one in French. But I ended up in a lot of English language bookshops, like Shakespeare and Company, so that didn’t help. Finally, one day on the Right Bank, I walked into a tiny little shop and found it. Huzzah! Then I found a 50th Anniversary edition issued by a London publisher at Daunt Books.

I love them both.

Okay. That’s it for today. We are seriously jet lagged and right now I feel like I’m wading through muck. I have to rest. Our muscles are aching from so much walking, much of it on cobblestones. I can’t even begin to estimate how many miles we walked. And I have to do some coaching on Anastasia  Broadway in a few days, so I need to be kind to myself and give myself time to recover and to re-enter.

I missed you.

Happy Thursday.

Filed Under: bookshops, London, our trip to Europe, Paris, reading 66 Comments

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I live in a little cottage in the country with my husband. It's a sweet place, sheltered by old trees and surrounded by gardens. The inside is full of the things we love. I love to write, I love my camera, I love creating, I love gardening. My decorating style is eclectic; full of vintage and a bit of whimsy.

I've worked in the theater for more years than I can count. I'm currently a voice, speech, dialect and text coach freelancing on Broadway, off Broadway, and in regional theater.

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