When I left you yesterday, we were about to see Notre Dame, which is just across the Seine from Shakespeare and Company. But first, we went into the little park across the street from the bookshop.
It’s charming. Paris has a lot of parks, big and small, and I love sitting down on a bench, watching both the people and the birds. In this case, crows were bullying the pigeons, so we’d see large swaths of pigeons fly up and out of the park, returning when it seemed as if the crows had gone. Very entertaining.
From the park, you could see Notre Dame.
As you see, there is scaffolding everywhere.
I’ve realized that daily life in Paris – for a tourist – is all about finding bathrooms and bottles of water. We had to find a toilette quickly. The closest bridge to Notre Dame has been closed since the fire. There used to be public bathrooms near the church, but that whole area has been blocked off. So we went to a local café, thinking we’d have a bite to eat, as well as avail ourselves of the toilettes. It was a beautiful café and they had a veggie burger which turned out to be the best veggie burger I have ever had – this from a 30 year vegetarian.
Oh my heavens. We made a repeat visit a few days later. So, so good!
From our table: a view of Notre Dame and the bouquinistes on the Seine. If you’re unfamiliar with that word, the bouquinistes are the booksellers that deal in used and antiquarian books along the Seine. Their shops are essentially in a green wooden box. They open up each day and then close and lock the box at night.
This is what they look like when they’re closed. We bought an antique book from one of the bouquinistes, which I’ll share with you later.
And now, some photos of Notre Dame:
From the front of the church, you’d hardly know there had been a fire, though the spire that we saw fall during news accounts of the fire is missing. But from the side and rear, it’s clear that there has been enormous damage. Many windows are missing; one assumes they’re being restored.
The Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge on the Seine, connects to Île de la Cité, the center of what was the medieval city of Paris. Notre Dame is there, along with a palace that surrounds Sainte-Chappelle, the most gloriously beautiful chapel I have ever seen. But that is for another day.
There. A shot of Notre Dame where the damage isn’t as visible. It’s comforting to see that the front view of that gorgeous church is much the same.
We headed back toward the Jardin du Luxembourg. This time, we entered from Rue Vaugirard, which gave us a whole new view of parts of the garden we hadn’t seen. Including this, my now favorite place in the garden.
I don’t mind telling you that we gasped when we saw this: Marie De Medici’s Fountain. This is a sneak peak. I’ll share more with you tomorrow. I have never been so entranced by a fountain in my life. It’s simply exquisite.
More of the fountain and the park and a whole lot of other things tomorrow.
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Happy Saturday.