(Writing this on Thursday evening.)
I’m heading back to NY today. Sigh. I’ll really miss Don and I’ll really miss New Orleans. But the cottage is waiting and I have to get back there and rake and heaven knows what else.
A few things:
Don and I were walking around the French Quarter and I saw Antoines and remarked on how famous it was and Don said let’s go look at it and we peeked in the door and this lovely guy named Austin came forward and said he’d give us a tour. Wow! Yes, we said! Antoine has been owned by the same family since 1840. Imagine! Austin has worked there since 1978. He told us the current owner treats everyone, no matter what color, what ethnicity, whatever, the same. With respect. And that’s all he needs to know.
He as so lovely. He took us through all 15 dining rooms, to the wine vault, up the stairs to the hidden door that was used during Prohibition, showed us the balconies – everything.
One of the larger dining rooms.
The dining room that faces the street.
It’s an amazing place. Such history! We were so lucky to have this chance to see Antoines.
Don and Austin.
Then there’s Royal Pharmacy. I’ve been peeking in the door waiting for a time to find them open so I could take a picture of this fantastic tiled soda fountain. Oh my heavens. Isn’t it gorgeous? I don’t think the soda fountain is still being used – but I’m not sure. Anyway, it’s there. Still intact.
Check out the prices.
And the entrance:
Thursday, as I was walking through the Quarter, I saw these mid-century lamps inside a store:
It’s never boring!
I will be up and out early today and probably won’t get back to the cottage until at least 12 hours later.
Goodbye New Orleans. I loved every minute here.
Happy Friday.
I enjoyed your pictures and stories of New Orleans so very much. You captured the essence of this intriguing city. You and Don are just darling too. Thanks so much for generously sharing your trip! Safe travels…
You’re welcome, Becky. Thank you!
I knew you would have a fantastic adventure in New Orleans! Safe travels!
I loved it there. Can’t wait to go back someday!
We had brunch at Antoine’s several years ago! It was a business meeting and so I don’t remember much about the food, but I do remember the Sazerac! This has been an exciting, beautiful trip for both of us—thanks a bunch. Happy traveling today.
Thank you, Shanna!
so glad you have had such a great time in new orleans, including that private tour of antoine’s! great job, austin!
really appreciate your taking time there to post images and words for all of us to enjoy.
hope your trip home goes well, that there aren’t many “to do” things on your list when you get there.
glad that you and don can spend time together soon in chicago. when will you be there?
kathy in iowa
I’ll be there from November 10 – 25. My birthday (and it’s a big one) is on the 21st, so I need to be with my husband on that day!
Oh…what a fantastic trip…short but sweet. Thank you so much for the photos…and the history along the way. I’m so happy you got to see New Orleans, and be with Don…you two are an amazing pair! Safe travels today! ;)
Thank you, Donnamae! I am so grateful that I got the chance to be there.
It is such a special city. I know you had a great time. It is always good to get home however! Safe travels!
I absolutely love New Orleans. There is simply no place like it.
There’s always a next time. Right? Sure hope you get to travel there again.
Absolutely. We are determined to go back there someday.
Gee, I think I’m almost as bummed as you about leaving New Orleans! It was a lovely visit – I really feel like I was walking in your shoes. And a personally-guided tour of Antoine’s – wow. Did you get to see kitchens, pantries etc too? I’d have been wildly-curious to see that, but there might be rules against “civilians” behind the scenes or something. Health-department stuff. Well, have a safe & quick trip home. So far, color-wise it has NOT been a “vivid” Fall as my grandmother would say. Maybe it’ll get better though – who knows? Certainly has been mild – and maybe that’s the problem. Hmmm. OK, safe trip & peace. 🍁 🍂
#Resist
We got to see the kitchen, but from the doorway. They were prepping for lunch, of course.
No, it hasn’t been a vivid fall here, either and almost all the leaves are off our trees. Happens every year – it gets windy here.
Wow! What a week! I love traveling with you, Claudia, you show us the best things. I’ve been to New Orleans just once, many years ago and hope to make it back sometime.
Thanks for the pictures!
You are very welcome, Deb!
I’ve never been to New Orleans, but your photos and highly personalized tour makes me want to visit. Hope there isn’t too much to do when you get home, although I know raking and mowing can take the equivalent time of many tasks on a to do list.
I had to rake a lot of leaves yesterday. Didn’t get around to mowing yet – probably mid-week after the rain passes.
Thank you once again for sharing your amazing photography! I enjoyed tagging along…….Your blog continues to be a favorite!
Thank you, Marcy Ray!
Claudia, What a glorious ending to your trip. I loved all the photos. That soda fountain…oh I would love to sit there for awhile. Life was so much simpler then. Blessings and safe trip, xoxo, Susie
The soda fountain is such a beauty! I’m glad they’re preserved it.
I’ve so enjoyed reading all your posts and the beautiful photos of New Orleans. What a wonderful trip you’ve had! Wishing you a safe trip home.
Thank you, Lily!
There was a early 20th-century writer named Frances Parkinson Keyes who wrote a number of novels (meticulously researched) about Cajun & Creole life in Louisiana. Today, those novels are of course often dated (and controversial) because of old cliches/prejudices of the day. But they otherwise are almost like reference books. I read her a long, long time ago (junior high and early high school; probably read them a little too early before I could understand some of it!) which infused me with a love and intrigue about Louisiana long before I ever saw the state with my own eyes. Not just geography, but the history and the people. (I have French and Native American heritage in the South U.S., so had become convinced I was Cajun, which was only just last year proven to not be the case so, of course, this was all very interesting to me. Although, I have to say, when I spent time visiting the area around Lafayette, Baton Rouge, Avery Island and New Iberia, I felt an incredible kinship with people I met, the landscape; the very air of the place….and I yearn to return. I think not just New Orleans can really get under your skin in the best way. Louisiana as a whole is just, to me, a fascinating state. Driving The River Road along the Mississippi between Baton Rouge and New Orleans was a highlight of my life…seeing the land and swamps, the great river with ships going by, incredible plantation houses [closely tied to New Orleans society of the 1700s-1800s]; the avenues of ancient cypress trees, the allées of moss-covered oaks…ahhhh, take me back!)
Had you ever read the Keyes mystery called “Dinner at Antoine’s”?? I think it’s only one of a couple of murder mysteries she attempted. I looked it up (Wiki again, since it’s easy): “Dinner at Antoine’s, set in the immediate aftermath of World War II, became Keyes’ biggest seller. The plot is an interesting twist on the ‘Least Likely Person’ concept of the murder mystery and is notable for ‘playing fair’ with the reader: all the clues you need to solve the mystery are embedded in the novel. A subplot involving diplomatic and political manipulation made use of Keyes’ experiences in Washington, D.C., as a Senator’s wife.”
“Her home in New Orleans, the Beauregard-Keyes House in the Vieux Carré, is now a museum. Formerly lived in, but not owned by, Confederate General P. G. T. Beauregard, Keyes restored the mansion to its Victorian glory, and her studio remains on display, complete with manuscripts. Now known as the Beauregard-Keyes House and Garden, the museum contains extensive Keyes correspondences, as well as her collections of dolls, fans, adult-sized costumes collected on her world travels and rare porcelain veilleuses, a kind of teapot in which the contents—anything from tea to milk—are kept warm by a small votive light. The veilleuse has the added bonus of serving as a nightlight and it was most commonly utilized at bedtime. Mrs. Keyes’ mentioned the use of a veilleuse in several of her novels. Her veilleuse collection was and is one of the most extensive in the world, second only to one in Trenton, Tennessee. Mrs. Keyes’ doll collection was highlighted in a biographical documentary…entitled ‘Once Upon a Time: The Story of the Dixie Doll’. The Beauregard-Keyes house appeared none the worse for wear after Hurricane Katrina, but the structure suffered roof damage.” (Both you and also I should catch this on our return trips to NOLA, Claudia!!)
I just ‘drank up’ the entire series of posts you’ve done on NOLA (had been quickly scanning but it needed a more thorough reading by me!) and I really feel you got a true taste of the city the way I never did. When I went, we were in too much of a rush, too few days. It’s better to sometimes not stray too far, to too many other sights, when you can somewhat stay put, or at least within walking distance, to really absorb where you are…and you certainly did that in the French Quarter and Garden District. You did pack a lot in, with Antoine’s, Cafe du Monde, etc. And I hadn’t realized the inside of the cathedral in Jackson Square was so incredibly gorgeous; wish I’d seen it when walking all around it; darn. Anyway, I’ve loved every single story and every single photo of yours. They were even more than your usually-terrific photos; you really captured color and a feel for what screamed history. Just a great bunch of posts, Claudia, and thank you so much for taking us along. VERY enjoyable!
Reader Margaret in comments here of October 22 had mentioned the Keyes house as something good-to-see in NOLA but I just didn’t make the connection until today that it was the home of that long-lost author of my youth. I’ve said it 50 times, I learn so much on this blog of yours, Claudia.
So glad you appreciated the posts, Vicki. I had such a wonderful time there. That city sneaks its way into your heart!
I read them in Junior High too (although I grew up in New Orleans) and “Blue Camellia” was my favorite—so haunting. Her house was a mecca of sorts for me, and it was precisely the way I imagined it would be. Over the years, I have gathered together all of her books, and re-read them now and again when I am feeling nostalgic. I don’t think I have ever met another person who loved her! Your description of her style was perfect.
Leslie
Yes, I’ve seemingly always known about Francis Parkinson Keyes and Dinner at Antoines. I’ve never read it, and I passed her house and gardens a few times while I was there, but didn’t get a chance to tour the gardens or house. They have a copy of that book in a glass case at Antoines.
Thanks for the tour! Beautiful!
You’re welcome, Jan!
My deb party was at Antoines!! Also my baby shower, and the party after the christening….so many memories@
Safe travels! Glad you now “Know what it means (to miss New orleans).
Peace, Leslie P.
It is a beautiful restaurant. The owner lives in an apartment right off of the restaurant. She’s in her eighties now.
What a charming place Antoine is, so inviting.
Marilyn
Yes, indeed!
Thanks for the amazing pictures and for sharing your New Orleans tour!
You’re welcome, Susan!
Everything you have shown us had been wonderful…the old lamps and shades are a great ending for me because I love seeing them…I hope that you are resting peacefully tonight….
Those lampshades need to be minified for my dollhouse!