Well. I had expected a quick yes or no answer to my question yesterday – imagine my surprise when I came home later in the day and read all of your wonderful comments! You made my day. I even shared some of your beautiful words with Don. Thank you, dear ones.
Okay! So it’s back to the trip.
We were excited about taking the Eurostar to London (which goes through a tunnel in the English Channel) but it became less exciting when we heard the announcement that it was a delayed about an hour and a half because another train had become stuck in the Chunnel. The train before ours was cancelled. The scene at King’s Cross was chaotic, as no one seemed to be keeping the waiting passengers up-to-date. We finally boarded and the ride itself was lovely. We got to see some of the French countryside. After arriving in London, we took a cab to our hotel – the Holiday Inn in Regent’s Park. Our room was so small that we could barely move. The decor was generic – and in a bad way – Holiday Inn. Only one person could go in the bathroom at a time and there was no room to move. The weather was cloudy, windy and damp and the room was the antithesis of our charming room in Paris, so yours truly was ready to cry. Don took over and went down to the front desk. When he returned, he had seen a room on the top floor that was an upgrade and quite nice. We upgraded, but we still had to wait two days until it was available. (We moved on Wednesday and the new room was SO much nicer that it completely changed our attitude.)
We headed out to explore a bit and took a cab (Don fell in love with the big black London cabs) to Parliament.
Big Ben is currently ensconced in scaffolding, as is some of Parliament. We had to walk around to this side to catch a glimpse of the clock. Nicer photos of Parliament coming up later in the week, taken when we went to Westminster Abbey.
We walked to the Thames. There’s Don and the London Eye in the background.
Don making an “urgent” call.
We headed over to St. James Park where we watched the ducks and the swans.
They were very friendly. Looking for food, no doubt.
We watched the guards do their thing. Perfectly coordinated in movement as they patrolled their area in front of Buckingham Palace. Don loved it. No – we didn’t get to the Changing of the Guard – we weren’t all that interested, and I’ve seen it before. But this was fun.
The palace gates.
Just loved this peek at the nighttime London Eye in the background.
The next morning, we headed to the Tower of London, which was simply fascinating. I’ve been to London three times but somehow had never made it there. It’s a huge complex, much bigger than I thought it was.
This is the White Tower. All the surrounding buildings were built to protect it.
We went on a tour. Our tour guide was a Beefeater and he was wildly funny but very informative. Much history that I was unaware of. Fascinating. And bloody.
Then we headed toward Tower Bridge and walked across it to Bankside/Southwark.
The bridge is stunning.
Southwark Cathedral, which dates from 1220 – 1420, when it was a priory and then the present-day cathedral. They have a lovely cafe there and we had a tasty lunch. I tried a piece of Victoria Sponge, by the way, in honor of The Great British Baking Show, but I concluded it’s not my thing. Don liked it, though.
Further down the road along the river, we encountered our particular holy site.
The original site of the Globe theater, where King Lear and Hamlet premiered, where Shakespeare worked, acted, and ran a company of actors. It’s holy ground to us. Parts of the theater were unearthed many years ago, but just remnants. It burned to the ground at one point, was rebuilt and then, when the Puritans came to power, it was closed and ultimately destroyed.
It’s behind this fence.
This is where it stood.
As you can see, there are apartment buildings right next to it.
We were very moved. It’s fair to say that we would not be working in the theater without Shakespeare. And the past 14 years or so of my career would never have happened.
Simply the greatest playwright that ever lived.
Just down the street is the marker for original site of the Rose Theater, which was also in existence at the same time – in fact, it pre-dated the Globe.
And just down the street from that is Shakespeare’s Globe, the theater that was meticulously designed and built to reflect all that we know about the original Globe. Spearheaded by American actor Sam Wanamaker, it took years to come to fruition. It opened in the late nineties and I took a group of students there in 2001 to study. So I’ve been in it before, but Don hadn’t. A lovely woman took pity on us – the last tour of the day had ended – and let us take a peek inside the space.
It’s a living, working, thriving theater that is amazing. They had just closed their last production of the season in this outdoor space. There is another smaller theater – lit by candles – that they use in the winter months.
We went to the gift shop and bought some t-shirts and I couldn’t resist this:
Now in our bathroom.
The back of the Globe.
Next to the theater. I loved these houses.
Don was shocked to find out he couldn’t busk here.
We crossed the Millennium Bridge and headed toward my favorite church, St. Paul’s.
We arrived just in time for Evensong.
These crosses are part of a temporary installation commemorating the end of WWI.
We walked back to our neighborhood, peeking down every Mews we found. Dream: to live in a London Mews.
I believe we also walked to Daunt Books in Marylebone, which I spoke of in an earlier post.
End of the day. We walked miles, mostly on cobblestones. More tomorrow.
Happy Wednesday and Happy Birthday to my sister’s eldest, my nephew.
Fabulous photos. I also visited the Tower of London and took the tour. Fascinating history and oh to be walking those same worn steps in winding staircases! Thanks for sharing the history of the Globe theater – I was unaware. Happy Wednesday and Happy Halloween!
You’re welcome, Karen!
Fantastic photographs Claudia- I love London and miss living there…
The Globe is very near to where my darling daughter lives, and we both often walk past those beautiful houses and wish one was ours…
So glad you had a great trip- Shame about the Victoria Sponge- a well made one is wonderful, and it sounds like you had an inferior one
Love your Shakespeare’s duck – we have one too, sitting next to the Statue of Liberty duck
Siobhan x
No, I think the cake was well made. It just isn’t my kind of cake. I don’t like the jam or the texture of the cake. It had nothing to do with how it was made, as Don really liked it.
Thanks, Siobhan!
The theatre is stunning. :-)
It is indeed. Thanks, Regula.
My daughter and I were chatting this weekend and she reminded me that a year ago yesterday she took the Eurostar from Paris to London. She, too, loved St. Paul’s and was there for Evensong. She loved every minute she spent in London and can’t wait to return. We oftentimes forget that the history experienced across the ocean is so very much deeper than the relatively recent one we have here. When you speak of walking on the cobblestones, my mind goes to all of the millions who have traveled those same paths and touched those same stones. It is rather magical, isn’t it?
We were always aware of how much more layered and deep the history is in Europe. It’s really stunning.
Thank you so much for continuing your travelogue. I would have been so sad to not finish your trip with you. Plus London and Edinburgh are favorites of my husband’s and mine, more so than Paris.
I hope you tell us about Lear and Ian McKellen tomorrow. That will be spectacular.
That will probably be on Friday’s post, Brenda.
Claudia, Your post brought back really wonderful memories of my trip to London this past summer. You’re fortunate to have a glimpse of the clock on Big Ben Tower. The tower was scaffolded and sheathed when we were there so we couldn’t see anything. I didn’t see the Globe, but that’s for the next trip. There is only so much a person can do. Looking forward to Part 2 and beyond!
It was scaffolded and sheathed everywhere else. Someone told us to walk down the road a bit so we could get a peek at the clock face. Thanks, Wendy.
Claudia, I am loving this trip with you and Don. I had to laughed at Don at the No Busking Sign…so funny. I loved the photo of him with Shakespeare. I know seeing the old theaters had to melt your hearts. I have often said it would be nice to live with a family in other countries and just help out to know their true lives. I mean for only a week or so. LOL. Blessings, xoxo, Susie
p.s. love the ducky.
There’s so much more to see and do there that we didn’t get around to. Can’t wait to go back!
Oh yes England…from the cobblestone streets, to the mews…I had to look that one up…lol! And busking…had to look that one up also. So glad you are continuing the tour.
I totally understand not wanting to come back…yes…I could live across the pond very easily myself. Something to dream about. I’m anxious to hear more! ;)
In a second. I could pack up and move there in a second! xo
I am enjoying this tour so much. I’ve never been to London but it would be on my list if I ever get back to Europe! So many fabulous things to see…but really no busking? I can just see Don falling in love with those roomy cabs! The Old Globe must have been a really important place for the two of you to see together. More London please! Hugs!
More coming this morning, Linda!
I’m loving traveling vicariously through you. Love your posts.
Thank you so much, Melanie!
Thank you for taking me to London, I so enjoyed my trip and look forward to the rest soon. <3
Thank you, Barbara!
Hi,Claudia! First of all, please do not stop writing from the cottage! I look forward to all your posts and would feel as i I lost a friend if you were to keep us up to date. The Paris photos are stunning and I will view them again and again.I spent time there in 1990 and loved it. As for the London photos,I am viewing them slowly and looking at every detail.I have never been to London and fear I shall not get there,although I sometimes feel as if I have after forty some years of watching every Masterpiece and BBC mystery! Thanks for all the work that you put into your blog and love to you and Don
Thank you for your kind words, Annette!
Great photos from London! Looks like you had relatively good weather too – at least for these pix. Not a lot of sunshine, but if it rained, it looks like it was very polite [it’s England, after all] and did it at night – LOL. I’ve never been to London [only the Continent] but am accumulating a very long list of Must Sees from so many friends that have been there. Honestly, if I ever went, I think I’d need at least a month to “do” London properly. Can’t wait to see more. Hope by now you’re looking at jet lag through the rear view mirror. Peace. 🏰
#Resist
#ProtectMueller
A tiny bit of rain in Paris and London. That’s it. We were really lucky in terms of weather. Thanks, Janet.
Claudia you are the friend who traveled, we miss you and we look forward to your return and your wonderful photographs.
Thank you, Edis!
Claudia, please continue posting all your travelogues, as much as you want, as everyone else has said. I’m looking forward to all of them since I’m unsure if and when I would make a return visit to Britain and I’ve never been to Paris. Never too many posts or pictures, and no corner is too remote or obscure to be of interest. The smallest can be the biggest, you never know.
I’ve been to St. Paul’s and found it breathtaking. Since today is Halloween, I also recall a visit I made to a smaller historic London church, All Hallow’s by the Tower. As a bit of spooky trivia, because of the church’s proximity, it was the site where a few of the newly-headless were brought following their own untimely trip to the Tower.
It’s still an active church. My discovery came after I ducked into its open doorway to escape a famously wind-driven London rain. I looked like a drowned rat but they invited me in. To my surprise and awe, a dressed-up assembly was about to begin a musical recital in the stained glass hall. Then tea and refreshments were served, followed by a top-to-bottom guided tour that included the Roman-era crypt and the original site of William Penn’s Anglican baptism. It is my family’s history that my maternal ancestors came to join William Penn. So it happened that sudden bad storm led to a memorable experience and a spiritual family connection. Happy Halloween.
What a great story, Eve! Thank you so much for sharing it.
Hello Claudia – Thanks for all the fabulous photos of London. As I mentioned yesterday, I try to visit London yearly and my friend and I usually stay in the Bloomsbury area not far from the Persephone Bookshop which is situated on the wonderfully named Lamb’s Conduit Street. It’s tiny but well worth a visit.
In your photo of Don on Westminster Bridge, the building in the background next to the London Eye is County Hall the former HQ of London County Council (local government).
As you’re both in the profession I thought you might like to know that its Council Chambers are currently being used to host the Agatha Christie play ‘Witness for the Prosecution’ It’s a really innovative use of space as the audience feel as if they are partaking in a trial set in 1950s Britain.
Depending on where you’re seated you might find yourself as a member of the jury!
There’s another St. Paul’s (much smaller) in Covent Garden, known as the Actors’Church as it lies in heart of London theatre land. Many stalwarts of British theatre have plaques denoting marriages/deaths etc. Again worth a look around but you may have already been on your previous London visits.
Looking forward to your next chapter xx
Yes, I’ve been to that St. Paul’s – though long ago! We didn’t get there this time but hopefully, some time in the future. Thanks, Dee Dee!
I meant to say living in England, I try to visit London at least once a year – it’s two hours away by train- not that I’m a kind of international jetsetter !!
Dee Dee x
Lucky you! I’d love to live in England!
I imagine that you were crestfallen when you found out about the busking ban, no? I just loved English signage, from the fox terriers with a line drawn through them to the car parks and lay-bys…too many more for my old brain to recall right now. What great shots of your trip!
Thank you, Shanna!
What a lovely tour you’ve taken us on. Thank you so much!
You’re very welcome, Allison!
Loved your great photos that brought back lots of memories from when we’ve been in London.
Thanks!
Thank you, Judy!
These photos are great. I feel like I am in London.
Marilyn
Thank you, Marilyn!
I didn’t get to read your blog yesterday. But I vote for hearing as much as you want to share about your trip. It was important to you and Don and I, for one, want to hear your thoughts and see as many pictures as you want to share. It’s been 5 years since I’ve been to Paris and 36 since I spent a month in England! So I am enjoying seeing both places through you so very much. I remember going to Evensong at St. Paul’s too back in ’82 when everyone was remembering the big wedding there the year before. The first pictures of Diana with Prince William were published while we were there and I remember the excitement of heading out to get newspapers that morning.
Keep the trip memories coming as long as you want ;-)
Thank you so much, Kay!
The theater is wonderful and the church is amazing but I must say the Shakespeare duck is just the best!..lol
I love that duck, Nancy!
Thank God for the Look Left, Look Right signs. I’m amazed I made it through every crossing and wish I’d taken a pic of that — nice shot! And wonderful images of the Globe. So understand your small room story. I think we lived it too! Oh, I love your visit!
Thank you, Jeanie!