Okay. Where were we?
Ah yes…Paris!
After breakfast the next day, we headed out, stopping on the Boulevard Raspail to spend some time at the weekly market.
It stretches for a few blocks. Don bought a mini quiche which he never got around to eating.
We crossed the street, planning to head back to Rue de Rennes, our main route toward the Seine, when we saw a lovely shop full of dishes. Of course, I had to go in. The shop’s name was Au Bain Marie.
Absolutely gorgeous – a combination of new and old.
Why didn’t I buy that pansy plate? Isn’t it gorgeous?
I saw some ceramic egg cups, new and beautifully made, from a company I know of. Though I loved them, I knew I could get them any time. The next thing I knew, Don was asking if they had any other egg cups. Claire, the lovely manager, brought out several antique silver egg cups. I’m not a person who is especially fond of silver and I don’t collect it. But I thought: okay, I’ll look at them. Since they were antique and pure silver, they were pricey. The one I really loved was beautiful and less expensive and very special. Don encouraged me to get it. Only when Claire was wrapping everything up did I realize I had misread the tag and it was more expensive than I thought. I was ready to cancel the sale, but Don (my enabler) insisted I get it.
It’s by far my most expensive egg cup. But it’s exquisite.
It’s from the late 1800s and that beautiful Art Nouveau design makes my heart sing.
I carried around some major guilt about this purchase until I looked at the egg cup again when we were packing to come home and I realized that I had let it go. It’s a beautiful memory of Paris and it’s worth it.
We headed down Rue de Rennes toward Rue Bonaparte, our usual route to the Seine. This time, we stopped at Ladurée to get some macarons. I didn’t cheat with sugar at all in Paris except for macarons, which I had already decided to indulge in.
Inside the shop.
Let it be noted: If you need to use a toilette, Ladurée has a beautiful one just behind that door.
Two little tables for dining downstairs, more tables upstairs.
We made our choices and headed for the Seine, where we stopped to take pictures of our little box.
Oh, lordy. Spoiler alert: they were incredible.
We crossed the Seine and walked through these arches to the Louvre.
On the other side, beyond the Louvre, are more arches where you exit and see this:
The famous Comédie-Française. The theater where Molière’s works premiered. Where, during a performance of The Imaginary Invalid with Molière playing the lead role of Argan, he collapsed and later died. So much history here. We are determined to see something there when we go back. We tried this time, but couldn’t get tickets, as there were only two performances while we were there and they were sold out.
Don is excited, as you can see.
By the way, the logo for the Comédie-Française is a red target. The first time I saw the building, while driving by in a cab and not knowing what it was, I thought, “Oh no! Target is in Paris!!!” Greatly relieved to find that wasn’t the case. Don said “There’s not one American who will see that and not think of Target.”
Right in front of the theater is this entrance to an underground passage:
Gorgeous.
Place Colette borders the theater building.
And right around the corner, this huge sculpture and tribute to Molière:
We found it very moving.
Paris loves Molière and rightfully so. (We do, too.)
Across the street, I found a favorite door, though Paris has a seemingly infinite number of beautiful doors.
It’s the window above the door that kills me.
We walked a long distance toward the Boulevard Haussmann and the famed Passages. There are several Passages (covered passages – an early form of a shopping arcade) in Paris. At one time there were over a hundred passages. We were headed toward the Passage Jouffroy, but we also stopped at a couple of other Passages.
Here is the interior of the Passage Joufroy:
Truly beautiful.
Of course, by this time we had to use a toilette rather desperately, so we stopped at a tea room in the Passage and had some lunch so that we could avail ourselves of the facilities. (So much time spent doing this kind of thing!)
We had a lovely lunch in which Don took pictures of people looking in the windows behind us to see what pastries were on display. They were wonderful. Luckily he published those photographs on Facebook because they were lost when his phone was stolen.
After lunch, I visited two shops that sold miniatures, my real reason for being there. I had planned to get there last year, but ran out of time. There are two shops, Pain D’épices and La Boite à Joujoux – both of them a combination of toy shop and miniature shop. They were delightful.
I forgot to get a picture of the outside of the other shop.
To be honest, most of the miniatures that I saw I can get anywhere. I recognized many of the manufacturers. So I decided to get a few things I couldn’t find anywhere else and that reminded me of Paris.
This painting.
This miniature electric kettle, very reminiscent of the ones the British use. It will go perfectly in my English cottage.
Mini macarons! Eeek!
And, wait for it….
Mini egg cups! I don’t mind telling you they were a challenge to photograph.
Once again, we walked back to the Louvre – another very long walk – looking at all the stamp dealers along the way. By the time we reached the Louvre, we were sore and tired (we really did walk miles and miles and miles while we were in Paris) so we caught a cab back to the hotel, where we read and rested and wrote in our journals. Don went to a local place that has great cooked veggies and he bought a bunch of them and we had dinner in our room.
We saved a lot of money that way. Meals are not inexpensive in Paris and we are vegetarians. Though the French love their meat, there is usually some vegetarian fare on a menu. Through trial and error, we have found a few places that have relatively inexpensive and tasty vegetarian food. Our needs are simple. We are not foodies. We don’t want to blow our money on a meal that will be over before we know it. We just want good and inexpensive food. We’d rather spend our money on visiting museums or at the Flea Market (or on macarons.) Last year, we found a place that makes the best vegan hot dogs just down the street from the Jardin du Luxembourg, and we make sure to get some and eat them while we’re watching Pétanque. We’re really getting to know ‘our’ neighborhood.
More tomorrow, my friends.
Happy Wednesday.
Beautiful egg cup, Claudia. Tahk you for posting your travel for us.
That Boulevard Raspail market– was it the bio (organic one? Gary & I went there. It wasn’t as extensive as the truly marvelous one in Amsterdam, but it was excellent!
When we were there, we heard there were vegan macarons, but we didn’t make it to the store, unfortunately, so we’ve never had them. Are they like flavored meringues?
I have no idea about the market – I just looked at it but didn’t do any research.
Macarons are meringue based. I can’t really describe the taste except to say they are delicious. They also use almond meal, I believe.
Thanks, Cara!
Oh!!!! That picture of the entrance to the underground! I think I would have just sat right there for days on end gazing upon that sight. Just breathtaking!! I want one like it in my yard!!!! Seriously, just beautiful!!
I know! It was amazing and a total surprise!
Thanks, Chris!
What a perfect day! I would have died in the dish shop. I’m glad you got the egg cup — it’s the perfect memory of a lovely day! And those miniatures — fabulous! I love following along with you here!
I’m so glad you’re here, Jeanie!
Oh my goodness I am enjoying your posts about Paris immensely! I may never get there in my lifetime and your photos and stories are so very wonderful! Thank you for sharing your journey with us. I feel like I’m there in my mind while reading and looking at your beautiful pictures.
xoxo
Oh good! That means I’m succeeding with these posts!
Nice travelog of France’s gorgeous city; beautiful photos. Love the shopping; miniatures and dishes and macarons.
(Good respite from my sleepless past 5 days when wildfire in SoCalif burned 10,000 acres of farmland just three miles from my house and came within a quarter mile of my offsite storage unit which currently houses most everything I own. I definitely could use me some Paris.)
I’ve been thinking of you, Vicki, wondering if the fires were close to you. Now I know. The farmers must be devastated! And too clos to comfort for you. Sending love.
It was of course dominating my life but I was trying to be sensitive about not saying too much about wildfire for anything to spoil your happy posts of Paris. I think/guess that a majority of your readers are in the eastern half of the U.S., Midwest, overseas; what happens ‘way out here in California is probably just names on paper but, wow, for us here and in it, a nightmare.
I will tell you in fewer words than are usual for me: I’ve been more than scared; I’ve been terrified.
Some day I’ll tell you about the 80 dogs at the rescue facility that got evacuated twice within mere hours, in the dead of night, no electricity, on dark farm roads in heavy smoke and in a super hurry; routes out of there only back-lit with towering, angry, orange-red flames just across the dry river bed (walking distance); my cousin was deeply involved (one of their longtime, trained volunteers/animal handlers) and all I could do, at the very-very least, was take snacks and water to the exhausted human workers (and traumatized canines).
That’s the stuff you don’t hear about in the national headlines. The smaller but no less heroic stories of brave, dedicated people (although of course there ARE none braver than the fire-fighting personnel on the ground, and their pilots in the air, manning helicopters doing water drops, and tanker planes spraying fire retardant, over and over and OVER again, in hostile territory; tireless, committed, dedicated people…til the job is finally done).
Lots of disrupted lives, including the farm animals on the ranches and wildlife in the brushlands, often tragically ended (although, this time, in our area, no loss of human life; still, I mourn for earth’s other creatures…the disoriented birds; even the bugs). And I just read a report that they expect no rain for us through December.
This particular fire in my ‘backyard’ should be out by Friday, fingers crossed, with the hope for no further Santa Anas, please; my county needs a break. I’ve learned I’m in the most dangerous fire corridor in Southern California; our valley is a tunnel for the Santa Anas; had never heard it described that way. I told my husband, “You want to keep living here? Next time, it may be our house. This is climate change (Trump needs to understand it’s science, not politics) and these fires are getting too big, too deadly. We are in danger here, it can’t be disputed.” It’s not the California my ancestors came to over a hundred years ago; things have changed.
Okay, enough. I’m punchy because I’m just so darned tired, Claudia. Physical and mental fatigue; stressful days; lots of emotion. That’s why your photos and commentary about Paris have been a tonic (a gift when I needed it); Calgon, take me away…
I’m really glad you and Don had such a great ‘escape’; it just sounds so magical…and right!
Dear Vicki, I know that you must have been living in terror for days. And in sorrow for all the loss of life. I’m so very sorry. I am glad you and your husband are safe.
It must be considered, right? The fact that it’s only going to get worse. Yes, there were fires when I lived in California, but nothing like there are now. I know you don’t want to leave and I would most likely feel the same way. But…
Much love,
Claudia
You are so comforting; thank you for being compassionate. You have a good heart and know when somebody needs a hug.
Claudia, I don’t think you and Don should consider returning to San Diego in further retirement or if you were to downsize. (I remember other discussions here on the blog we’ve had about ‘options’, like maybe downsizing and renting, etc.) I know Don, at times, must feel a lure for his home state and you both miss the ocean, but there are other oceans.
Oh, we aren’t. Neither of us would go back there now. Besides the obvious fire danger, it just isn’t the way it used to be. Overcrowded, too much traffic, way too overdeveloped. We love the ocean, but the fact is, that’s the only draw. Thanks, Vicki.
That little silver egg cup was meant to be yours! Lovely.
Thank you, Judy!
I highly recommend staying somewhere near a metro station next time as it is so much cheaper than cabs….I am sure there is a next time :) Love your mini macaroons
We stayed near two metro stations and used them. That has nothing to do with grabbing a cab elsewhere in Paris, especially those areas not near a metro station.
Thanks!
That egg cup is gorgeous. I’m so glad you brought that home…that way we get to see it more, too…lol. And, that entrance to the underground passage is breathtaking. Just so unique!
I find myself just grinning as I’m reading your posts…keep ‘em coming! ;)
I will – a few more to go, Donna! Thank you.
I am very much enjoying all your lovely photos and stories – thank you for sharing!
The silver eggcup is a wonderful souvenir as of course are the mini treasures.
It is. And I love the minis, which will always remind me of Paris.
Thank you, Barbara!
Laduree macarons are exquisite aren’t they? The flavours are so intense, I first tasted them in Paris and they have a shop in London’s Covent Garden where I treat myself to a couple whenever I go.
The crockery shop displays are almost too much to take in as there’s so much to look at! I love French toy shops, they’re so quirky. I noticed in the corner of your photo a stack of trays with Becassine who is a much loved French character and my French colleague Christine whom I mentioned previously, received gifts from work for her recent 60th birthday with a Becassine theme!
Apologies for French words that haven’t got appropriate accents on them, I know where they should be but am typing from a Kindle tablet😬
Happy Wednesday
I can’t get the accents on my comments here, only when I’m composing the blog because I have a special plugin that provides them.
I love French toy shops. They’re charming!
Thanks, Dee Dee!
Claudia that egg cup is simply gorgeous. What a treasure to add to you collection. Those miniature shops are so lovely and inviting. Thank You for these photos.
Marilyn
You’re very welcome, Marilyn!
As a silver collector, my heart stopped when I saw your egg cup. Thank God for husbands who know when to splurge.
I am soooo enjoying this. Hope there are MANY more to come.
jane in tx
Yes, Don is the best, Jane! I’m glad he enabled me! I really love that egg cup.
Thank you, Jane!
Another wonderful day in Paris with you and Don. Isn’t is a special feeling to have “your” neighborhood from which to branch out? You have a great eye for miniatures and you found beautiful souvenirs for your little houses. Lauderee! A dream! With a toilette alone worth the trip! You are making me think there might be a trip to Paris in my future–maybe Sept. of 2020. Could we meet at the Eiffel Tower for a coffee?
It is. We really love that neighborhood. It feels like our second home. I hope there is a trip in your future, Nora. It’s well worth it.
Your post was just perfect, as if I were there with you and Don. I don’t have the words to say how good I felt reading this post because you said everything so eloquently. Thank you for a beautiful trip that I took with you in Paris today just reading your post.
You’re so welcome, Barbara.
Thanks again, Claudia for your wonderful report of your strolling around in Paris. It was at Pain D’Epice I came in contact the first time with dollhouse miniatures. This was about 10 years ago. I was absolutely thrilled that time not knowing where it leads me to and that there are so much more amazing people who sell or make their own miniatures, It was a wonderland to me. Miniatures are still an “amour fou” to me and every time I’m in Paris I go back to this shop and buy some pieces as souvenir.
I hope you are not getting tired to show us more of your journey. Regards Helga.
I don’t blame you! Did you visit the other shop as well?
I’ve got at least three more posts in me, Helga! Thank you.
I did visit the other shop too, its even more touristik.
I’m looking forward to your other posts of Paris. Helga
I actually found more in the other shop – the macarons, egg cups, and kettle. Thanks, Helga!
I’m getting caught up on your Paris posts…I’m a couple of days behind.
I just can’t get over the beauty of everything all around…the buildings, the doorways, the stores, the scenery, even the macaron box…my head would be on a swivel everywhere I went! That store with the dishes…wow! Hmm, maybe lucky for both Brian and I, neither of us like macarons! (We don’t like meringue.) I’d probably eat too much cheese and bread there instead. ;-)
I don’t like meringue, either, but macarons are another thing entirely. They don’t taste like meringue to me.
I DID eat too much cheese and bread. I confess!
Thanks, Melanie.
I must tell you that the doors in Paris were amazing and I was in love with so many and took photos of so many! What a fun day you had. Oh the search for a toilette is a challenge isn’t it. We stopped many a time for a drink or coffee so we could use the facilities. Love your photos. So so sorry Don’s phone was stolen. The miniatures you chose, perfect! Hugs my sweet friend. I am enjoying catching up on your posts!
Entire books have been written about the doors of Paris. They’re incredible. Thank you, Linda!