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You are here: Home / Archives for Claudia

Paris, Part 3

November 3, 2019 at 10:29 am by Claudia

In addition to all the changes in time zones we’ve been through over the past week and a half – just now getting over jet lag – we’ve been through two time changes. France set their clocks back last weekend, while we were there. And now, we’ve set our clocks back.

No wonder we’re a bit off!

Back to Paris. I’m going to spend a bit of time on Marie De Medici’s Fountain, simply because it’s so exquisite.

The beautiful swoops of ivy. Isn’t this gorgeous? I don’t mind telling you I was entranced.

Reflections and leaves. Another reason I love to visit Paris in autumn.

We stood here for the longest time, trying to figure out who the figures were. Since we stumbled upon the fountain and hadn’t done any research, we could only guess. We were wrong, of course. The fountain originally had a statue of Venus, along with some nymphs, but in the 19th century – the fountain was originally constructed between 1623 and 1630 – it was moved thirty meters (about a hundred feet) to its current location and these figures were added. Sculpted by August Ottin and added to the fountain in 1866, they are the giant Polyphemus, in bronze, and Acis and Galatea, in white marble. You can find all the details about the fountain on Wikipedia.

The coat of arms of the Medicis is at the top.

We sat on two of those chairs, staring at the water and the beauty surrounding us.

Eventually, we left – rather reluctantly – and walked toward the pond.

That’s the Panthéon in the distance. Originally a church dedicated to Sainte-Genevieve, it eventually became a mausoleum, where many famous Parisians are buried. Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Émile Zola, Louis Braille, Marie Curie, Alexandre Dumas and heroes of the French Resistance are buried there. We didn’t get to it this trip, but we will next time.

Children were sailing sailboats in the pond.

This dog was quite interested in the fish.

The playground is so wonderful! Kids are allowed to climb and hang upside down and ride through the air on a seat that travels from one point to another. That little girl in the foreground is on it. It’s incredibly well designed and what we loved most about it was that it hearkened back to the playgrounds of our youth, though obviously much better, and to a time when the powers-that-be weren’t so darned ‘careful.’ Kids need to play. They need to explore. They need to take a few risks. There were many parents there and I’m sure they were keeping a careful eye on the kids. It’s magical.

It’s right next to a carousel and the Marionette Theater that we visited last year.

And finally, to our favorite place to while away some time, the Pétanque courts. We discovered them last year and fell in love with the game and the players and the conviviality of the whole thing. I’m going to write more about Pétanque later because I think it’s worth writing about. We came back to watch this game, with an ever-changing cast of characters, at least 3 more times while we were in Paris.

On this particular day, the young gentleman in the foreground noticed us, found out we were Americans, and took the time to explain the game to us. After each round, he would come over and explain what had just happened, how many points each team had, and the strategy of the game. He was so kind. Everyone was. But this man was delightful. We were so grateful for his willingness to pass on his knowledge.

Everywhere we went in Paris, we met kind, generous, friendly, and courteous people. I don’t know where the idea that the French are rude to Americans started, but I have never experienced it. Nor has Don. Sometimes people are busy and only have time for a short reply but that happens anywhere; in my little town here in the Hudson Valley, in New York City, in London. As I said last year, if you make an effort to communicate, if you are respectful and aware that you are a visitor in another country, if you are a bit humble, you will be embraced. We were embraced last year and it happened again this year.

More tomorrow. I sure hope you’re finding this interesting!

Happy Sunday.

Filed Under: On The Road, Paris 42 Comments

Paris, Part 2 (Including Notre Dame)

November 2, 2019 at 10:00 am by Claudia

When I left you yesterday, we were about to see Notre Dame, which is just across the Seine from Shakespeare and Company. But first, we went into the little park across the street from the bookshop.

It’s charming. Paris has a lot of parks, big and small, and I love sitting down on a bench, watching both the people and the birds. In this case, crows were bullying the pigeons, so we’d see large swaths of pigeons fly up and out of the park, returning when it seemed as if the crows had gone. Very entertaining.

From the park, you could see Notre Dame.

As you see, there is scaffolding everywhere.

I’ve realized that daily life in Paris  – for a tourist – is all about finding bathrooms and bottles of water. We had to find a toilette quickly. The closest bridge to Notre Dame has been closed since the fire. There used to be public bathrooms near the church, but that whole area has been blocked off. So we went to a local café, thinking we’d have a bite to eat, as well as avail ourselves of the toilettes. It was a beautiful café and they had a veggie burger which turned out to be the best veggie burger I have ever had – this from a 30 year vegetarian.

Oh my heavens. We made a repeat visit a few days later. So, so good!

From our table: a view of Notre Dame and the bouquinistes on the Seine. If you’re unfamiliar with that word, the bouquinistes are the booksellers that deal in used and antiquarian books along the Seine. Their shops are essentially in a green wooden box. They open up each day and then close and lock the box at night.

This is what they look like when they’re closed. We bought an antique book from one of the bouquinistes, which I’ll share with you later.

And now, some photos of Notre Dame:

From the front of the church, you’d hardly know there had been a fire, though the spire that we saw fall during news accounts of the fire is missing. But from the side and rear, it’s clear that there has been enormous damage. Many windows are missing; one assumes they’re being restored.

The Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge on the Seine, connects to Île de la Cité, the center of what was the medieval city of Paris. Notre Dame is there, along with a palace that surrounds Sainte-Chappelle, the most gloriously beautiful chapel I have ever seen. But that is for another day.

There. A shot of Notre Dame where the damage isn’t as visible. It’s comforting to see that the front view of that gorgeous church is much the same.

We headed back toward the Jardin du Luxembourg. This time, we entered from Rue Vaugirard, which gave us a whole new view of parts of the garden we hadn’t seen. Including this, my now favorite place in the garden.

I don’t mind telling you that we gasped when we saw this: Marie De Medici’s Fountain. This is a sneak peak. I’ll share more with you tomorrow. I have never been so entranced by a fountain in my life. It’s simply exquisite.

More of the fountain and the park and a whole lot of other things tomorrow.

Note: I’ve reactivated the Comment Reply plugin, so you can check that box now if you want to. Thanks for your patience!

Happy Saturday.

Filed Under: On The Road, Paris 30 Comments

Paris, Part 1

November 1, 2019 at 10:33 am by Claudia

Woke up at 4 am again this morning. We’re still battling jet lag. It’s so much harder coming back. We adjusted fairly quickly once we arrived in Paris. Yesterday afternoon, I fell asleep in the chair for an hour – a deep, almost drug-like sleep. Last night, I was falling asleep on the sofa at 9 pm.

Anyway, we’re struggling, but we know it will eventually go away.

We’ve had very high winds over the past 12 hours or so and they will continue throughout the day. It was too warm and humid yesterday. By the end of the day today, the temps will drop below freezing, so I’ll be saying goodbye to my porch plants. Sigh.

On to Paris.

We flew out of JFK on an overnight flight. This was taken as the sun started rising over Ireland and the Irish Sea.

We took a cab to the hotel and dropped off our luggage. Had some lunch at a café across the street and, after we finally got to check in, took a walk down to the Seine. We had been awake for over 24 hours, so we were really tired, but we kept going until we could finally go to bed around 9:30 pm Paris time.

This is Rue Bonaparte, a narrow road that we walk down to reach the Seine. It’s utterly charming. Ladurée is there. Many boutique-like shops line the street; art galleries and designer decor, that kind of thing.

Yours truly looking in the window at Fortuny. What I wouldn’t give for one of those signature hanging lamps made from their beautiful silk.

Crossing the Quay to the Seine.

The Seine. We walked along the cobblestones for quite a distance. Too far, when you consider how tired we were, but what can you do? We love the Seine.

A favorite sign on the banks of the Seine:

Don’t pee on the steps!

After a lot of walking, we headed back to the hotel (which involved even more walking.) The thing that is one of the most charming things about Paris  – all the old cobblestones – is also the hardest on my legs and knees. And Don’s. So we were ready to grab some dinner and head back to the room for the night.

The next day we found ourselves back in the charming breakfast room of the hotel. It looks like an old wine cellar and is in the basement.

Everyone should have lighting like this in their lives. If I had my druthers, every photo of me would be taken here in this room! I should mention that you’re looking at two relaxed people who have left stress and worry behind. I had no anxiety the whole time I was there. (It’s back today.)

We have a favorite table that we gravitate to and, like last year, it was available every morning during our stay. Coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, a basket of rolls and fresh croissants, jam, butter, and coffee. Cheese and yogurt are also available. We chatted with a woman who stays there for a few days every week as she lives full-time in the country – in Burgundy. She’s an American who was raised in Westchester County (where we lived when we first moved out East) and has been living in France for 30 years.

I don’t mind saying I was jealous. We spoke to her a few times while we were there and I now have her business card. She wants us to call her when we return. Her parting words on the day we left? VOTE. She still votes in all American elections.

We decided to walk to Shakespeare and Company but we took a different route via Rue de Vaugirard. We had walked so much the day before, so we wanted to eliminate some of the touristy streets (and cobblestones!) Such a lovely route, running along walls of the Jardin du Luxembourg and the rear of the Sénat, with armed guards protecting the entrance.

And here we are. I love this bookshop. Don loves this bookshop. This time, we wanted to visit every nook and cranny inside the shop, and we did. We spent a long time there. No photos are allowed inside the shop, so I can only supply photos of the exterior. It’s always crowded, but it’s so worth it.

This is one of the fountains found throughout Paris, called Wallace Fountains, that provide clean drinking water to the citizens of Paris. This one is right in front of Shakespeare and Company and we took advantage of the opportunity to fill our water bottles.

We noticed that everyone in Paris was bundled up as if it was winter, whereas we had our jackets open and, at times, took them off. It was in the high fifties, just as it was back home. Is it because Paris/France is in a more temperate climate, so the weather change seems more extreme to them? To us, living in cold upstate New York, it was mild.

Shakespeare and Company is an English language bookshop. There are a few books in French and Spanish, but the vast majority of the stock is in English. I was so happy that I had read the history of Shakespeare and Company earlier this year. I felt as if I really knew the space and was able to share little details with Don.

Of course, we both bought books. I tried to find books I hadn’t seen here.

A beautiful edition of short stories by Dorothy L. Sayers, Lord Peter Wimsey Investigtates.

A Penguin Classics Edition of A Room of One’s Own  by Virginia Woolf.

The Pursuit of Love  by Nancy Mitford. I’ve been looking for it around here to no avail.

Furious Hours  by Casey Cep, an American writer. Its subtitle is: Murder, Fraud and the Last Trial of Harper Lee. Based on a real-life trial of a serial killer that Harper Lee was very interested in, so much so that she spent hours at the trial, thinking she might write about it. As far as I know it’s available only in hardcover here, but they had it in paperback, so I bought it.

Middle England  is a book I’ve read about and very much want to read, but it’s not available in America yet. So I snapped it up. I got it on a return trip to Shakespeare and Company.

And I requested their iconic stamp inside each book.

Heaven. On that return trip, I also purchased a book bag with their logo.

After this, we sat in an adjoining park and took pictures of Notre Dame. That will be for tomorrow.

Happy Friday.

Filed Under: Paris 40 Comments

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Welcome!

Welcome!

I live in a little cottage in the country with my husband. It's a sweet place, sheltered by old trees and surrounded by gardens. The inside is full of the things we love. I love to write, I love my camera, I love creating, I love gardening. My decorating style is eclectic; full of vintage and a bit of whimsy.

I've worked in the theater for more years than I can count. I'm currently a voice, speech, dialect and text coach freelancing on Broadway, off Broadway, and in regional theater.

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